Are Diamonds Still A Girl's Best Friend? Kiri Blakeley, 04.17.09,
05:45 PM EDT
The
CEO of online diamond retailer Blue Nile is counting on customers
going all out for a beautiful ring--in spite of the downturn.
The diamond business is cold
as ice.
Several respected diamond retailers have gone
out of business, and others are struggling to stay afloat.
But while diamond retailers may be dropping
like stones, that doesn't mean that people aren't getting
engaged--and that still means, in most cases, a diamond ring.
Diane Irvine, CEO of the largest online diamond
retailer, Blue Nile ( NILE - news - people ), hopes that also
means that her company is a buyer's--and a girl's--best friend.
"Based upon budgets today, some people
might be buying a diamond eternity band as opposed to a diamond
solitaire," says Irvine. "But by and large people
want to maximize their budgets and buy a beautiful ring."
While the average price of a Blue Nile ring has dropped from
$6,200 in 2007 to $6,000 today, the average carat (0.9) hasn't
changed.
In fact, Irvine is counting on the new frugality
to drive the Seattle-based business. "People may not
be opting to buy discretionary jewelry," she says, "but
they are still getting married."
"Of the online jewelry stores, Blue Nile
is top of the heap," says diamond-industry analyst Kenneth
Gassman. "They have helpful sales people, a broad selection
and good prices. Men can go online and get educated and look
at the diamond the way an engineer would."
Blue Nile has 60,000 diamonds and several
hundred settings to choose from, as opposed to the typical
dozen or so underneath a glass case at a local jeweler (which
still makes up the majority of the fragmented U.S. diamond
market). But what might be more important these days is that
Blue Nile offers a 20% to 40% discount off the average retailer.
It also takes great pride in its quality of
diamonds. In 2006, the site set an online diamond purchase
record with the sale of a $1.5 million 10-carat diamond of
"flawless" grade and "D" color (the highest
color and clarity available).
"If you can buy this high a quality of
diamond at this much less, why wouldn't you?" asks Irvine.
Well, for starters, there's that little blue
box tied with a white bow--the one that says Tiffany ( TIF
- news - people ).
"We're the other blue box," Irvine
says defiantly. She doesn't just mean this metaphorically:
Blue Nile's box is also blue, though it is dark navy as opposed
to Tiffany's robin's egg shade. "At the end of the day,
the woman says, 'This is the most incredible ring I could
have received,' and the man says he got the best diamond for
his money," Irvine says.
Blue Nile can keep its prices below average
because it doesn't purchase the diamond from the supplier
until the consumer does--which means it can pass along daily
or long-term dips in diamond prices (down 15% the past 12
months). After a diamond is bought online, the gem is shipped
from the supplier to Blue Nile, set in a ring and then overnighted
by Federal Express to the purchaser at no additional charge.
Because Blue Nile is one of the largest diamond retailers,
it can also use its volume of buys to negotiate prices downward
with dozens of international suppliers.
Like the rest of the industry, Blue Nile has
suffered--sales were down 7.5% to $295 million in 2008--but
it has done comparatively better than its collective online
rivals, whose sales dropped an average 12%, according to comScore
statistics. And while U.S. diamond sales plummeted 25% in
the fourth quarter, the company's stock has doubled to $37
since its January low; last year its share of the U.S. engagement
ring market rose to 4.5% from 4%.
From its start in 1999, the company has struggled
to compete with the Tiffanys and Harry Winstons of the world,
but thanks to customers like Sanjay and Amy Bhargava, Blue
Nile's engagement ring sales now rival Tiffany's, which has
a selection of about 2,000 engagement rings online.
By 2008, the Cleveland couple had been dating
for three years, and Sanjay, 34, by his own admission was
on an Amy-imposed engagement "deadline"; that meant
buying an engagement ring. During a trip to New York City
that year, Amy, 33, led him into Tiffany. But while this gave
the soon-to-be affianced pair a chance to scout diamonds,
neither was happy with the service or the inventory.
Back at home, they visited some local jewelry
stores, but again, quality was a concern. Then one of Sanjay's
clients suggested Blue Nile. "The client spent 45 minutes
explaining to me what to look for--the four C's," says
Sanjay, referring to clarity, color, cut and carat weight.
Amy, for her part, had also heard about Blue
Nile and sent Sanjay a big hint with an e-mail link to the
site. By that time, Sanjay had already been on the site. Impressed
with what he saw, as well as the personalized service from
the customer service line, he purchased a 2.2 carat princess
cut in a Petite Trellis platinum setting for $20,000 and proposed
on New Year's Eve. "Amy is down to earth and didn't expect
a 2.2 carat diamond," says Sanjay. "But I wanted
a ring that would be with her the rest of her life--no need
for an upgrade."
"There is a bit of a stigma about where
you get a diamond," admits Amy. "But when people
see the ring and the quality, the stigma is instantly gone.
They want to go online and check it out for themselves."
While less than 10% use third-party financing
offered through Bank of America ( BAC - news - people ) or
Bill Me Later on the Blue Nile site, most put it on their
credit cards. Blue Nile customers can call the 800 number
and receive a personal service representative who walks them
through the entire buying process--Sanjay spent six hours
over the course of three weeks talking to his rep.
Customers, who don't get to see the ring until
its arrival, can return it, no questions asked, within 30
days.
And while buyers may be increasingly intrepid--and
trusting--about spending money on luxury goods online, there's
still marketing and audience-development work to be done.
This year, Irvine will concentrate on upgrading
the site's graphics, making it even more user-friendly so
that hundreds of combinations of desired settings and diamond
cuts can be searched more quickly. There will also be higher-quality,
bigger photos, and Irvine wants to start a customer loyalty
program.
International sales, which rose 62% in 2008,
remain an important part of the company's expansion plans.
Last week, Blue Nile launched a program so that 35 international
markets could make purchases in their local currency. "Theoretically,"
says Irvine, "this should remove one more emotional hurdle
to buying online."
Blue Nile by the Numbers
$450 million--total worth of diamonds on sale
on the site
0.9--the average carat diamond sold on the
site
25-45--the age range of target customer
70%--percentage of purchasers who are men
$6,000--average amount spent on a ring
10--cuts of diamonds available
75%--percentage of diamond purchases made
by first-time buyers
3--average number of weeks from first going
on the site to buying a ring